<<< Pet Care Index

On This Page
Intro
A Note to Parents
Preparation
Handling
Social Groups
Housing
Exercise
Somthing to Gnaw
Bedding
Cleaning
Food
Water
Reproduction
Health

The domesticated rat is descended from an albino strain of the brown rat which arrived in New Zealand in the nineteenth century as a stowaway on European trading ships. Today, there are many varieties of domestic rat to choose from as companions.

For many children, a rat is an ideal companion. They are active and intelligent and, with gentle handling and care, can become very tame. Rats enjoy human companionship, and live for about two to three years.

In some overseas countries rats are very popular, especially with residents of high-rise accommodation where it is difficult to have a cat or a dog.

A NOTE TO PARENTS: Please bear in mind that your children may well become bored with their animals after a few months. You will then become responsible for all the animals' daily needs.

PREPARATION: Prepare for your rats before you bring them home. Have ready the cage, food and drink containers, gnawing log, bedding and, of course, a food supply. Moving house is traumatic for any animal, but by preparing in advance your rats can move straight into a secure and comfortable environment.

HANDLING: Rats are very easy to handle and soon become tame, provided they are carefully and gently handled. They will bite if handled too quickly or too roughly. A rat should not be picked up by its tail. Instead, slowly pick it up by cradling or cupping your hands, then place the animal on a flat surface with a little food. Alternatively, put a hand gently around its chest and lift it onto the palm of your other hand for support. Gently stroke its back. Repeat this every day, as often as you can, and soon you will have a little friend that trusts you.

SOCIAL GROUPING: Two male or two female rats of the same litter, housed together before puberty, will usually live quite amicably in one large cage. It is unfair to keep rats singly, as they are social animals and appreciate company.

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HOUSING: Living quarters should be designed to give the sort of conditions which most closely resemble the animal's natural way of life, with access to tunnels for hiding in and materials like straw and shavings for warmth and nest-making.

Small mammals should be housed in cages where they may be viewed from the front, not from the top, as this is less stressful for them. Do not get a cage that is too small for its occupants. A minimum size cage for two adult rats would be one metre long by 60 cm wide by 60 cm high, but a bigger cage is strongly recommended. It is possible to adapt a rabbit hutch by substituting a smaller gauge of wire so that it is escape-proof. If you decide to build your own cage, it should be designed so as to facilitate easy cleaning. A pull-out metal tray on the bottom is one suggestion.

Rats are inquisitive creatures and they like to see out of their cages but (as with mice) they need privacy too, so some sort of covered shelter and nesting box should be provided within the cage.

Because rats require a higher ambient temperature than rabbits or guinea pigs, they are not suitable for keeping in outdoor accommodation in winter.

EXERCISE: A suitable 'playground' outside the cage, or incorporated as part of it, is beneficial, not only for the rats but also for their owners who will enjoy watching the antics of the animals. Toys (such as plastic tubes, small boxes and driftwood) will provide many hours of amusement.

SOMETHING TO GNAW: Rodents require material to gnaw, in order to keep their incisors sharp and worn to the proper length. A small log or a bone should always be available for this purpose, or your rat will soon gnaw its way out of its cage.

BEDDING: Like mice, rats need a lining to their cage which can be composed of sawdust, peat, woodchips or wood shavings, with a layer of shredded paper on top for nesting. Avoid cedar and pine sawdust or any treated wood as these contain oils and preservatives that may be poisonous to rats. Shredded paper should be plain white paper, tissues or paper towels, but never newspaper as the printing ink can be poisonous.

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CLEANING: Rats may well pick a corner of the cage for urination, and cleaning out daily is a simple matter. Bedding should be changed two or three times a week, and cages should be washed and disinfected each week. The rats should not be returned to their cage until the cage is thoroughly dry.

FOOD: The dietary requirements for rats are very similar to those for mice, but of course they eat considerably more. Pelleted food provides good, basic nutrition and is available from most pet shops. Rats may also enjoy oats or wheat, green vegetables, apples and carrots. Generally speaking, an adult rat requires 15-30 g of pellets (or equivalent) each day. Always use gnaw-proof containers for food.

WATER: A rat will drink 20-45 ml of water each day, so it is important that water is available continuously from drinking bottles. These should be cleaned thoroughly at least once a week with a bottlebrush, and sterilised occasionally with a sterilising agent such as Milton.

Thorough rinsing afterwards is essential to avoid any chance of toxic residue.

REPRODUCTION: To prevent unwanted offspring, the SPCA strongly recommends either having male rats desexed or only keeping same-sex rats together. Rats are prolific breeders, and SPCAs often receive the unwanted offspring. If your rat becomes unexpectedly pregnant, bear the following in mind.

Female rats carry their young for 20-22 days and give birth to a litter averaging eight to 11 youngsters. The baby rats weigh approximately four to six grams at birth and are born with their eyes closed. These open in approximately 14-17 days and the baby rats are weaned at five to six weeks of age, reaching puberty at nine weeks.

A male and female rat paired together throughout their breeding life could produce a litter every four to five weeks! As the size of an average litter is between eight and 11, it is obvious that the breeding of rats is not recommended.

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HEALTH: Prevention is better than cure. Purchase healthy animals and maintain good husbandry by providing adequate ventilation, clean cage conditions, sound diet and regular vet checks.

Respiratory diseases: Coughs, snuffles or pneumonia are caused by a variety of viruses, bacteria and other organisms. The most common and persistent is chronic respiratory disease. Signs include sneezing, weight loss, runny nose, snuffling and 'chattering'.

If you notice any of the above symptoms - or any lumps, hair loss, diarrhoea, excessive water drinking or loss of appetite - consult your veterinarian.

Note: Do not be alarmed if your rat vocalises during play or has a red discharge from the eyes. This can be normal for rats, but if it causes you concern contact your veterinarian for advice.

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